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    Natural Wine: between Certification, Philosophy, and Common Sense

    Friday, 05 June 2026 Gianluca Telloli e Maddalena Frigerio, Friday, 05 June 2026 (0 minutes read)

    Over the past twenty years, the term “natural wine” has made a strong entrance into the wine industry debate, becoming for some an indispensable production philosophy and for others a vague, often misused label. Yet, to truly understand this phenomenon, we must look back to its origins and place it within the context of a broader transformation in the world of wine.

    From standardization to awareness

    Between the 1970s and the 1990s, the wine industry experienced a strong push toward standardization of protocols. The goal was to make production more controllable, stable, and reproducible. Oenological chemistry, which initially emerged as a technical tool to address real problems, gradually became a tool used in an increasingly invasive manner.

    This approach certainly helped improve many wines that had previously been produced in a haphazard manner and often exhibited obvious flaws. However, over time, technical intervention became excessive in some cases: wines that were engineered and standardized, sometimes far removed from the authentic identity of the terroir and the vintage.

    It is precisely from this awareness that, between the late 1990s and the early 2000s, a new sensibility emerged. Many producers began to ask themselves how to bring the grape cluster, the vineyard, and the farmer’s savoir-faire back to the center of the production process. The underlying idea became that of adding as little as possible in the cellar, seeking to enhance what comes naturally from the vineyard.

    “Natural” does not mean “a complete lack of intervention”

    This is where the first major misunderstanding arises. What does “natural” really mean?

    To think that wine can be the result of “zero intervention” is, in fact, impossible. Wine exists precisely because of human intervention: from the cultivation of the vine to fermentation and storage. Without humans, wine as we know it would not exist.

    The point, therefore, is not to eliminate all intervention, but to question the quality and extent of that intervention. The goal becomes limiting the introduction of unnecessary external elements, avoiding aggressive corrective practices, and instead seeking to guide the wine in the most respectful way possible.

    From this perspective, the concept of natural wine should not become an ideological banner or a source of conflict between factions. Unfortunately, especially in Italy, the debate has often become polarized: on one side, those who see natural wine as the only possible path; on the other, those who consider it a fad lacking a solid foundation.

    The reality is more complex and requires balance.

    Agronomy, the Environment, and Responsibility

    The discussion of natural wine is not limited to the winery; above all, it involves agricultural practices. Over the years, agronomic practices have evolved to place greater emphasis on soil management, biodiversity, and vine health, often through organic or biodynamic approaches.

    Here too, however, the fundamental principle should be common sense. A more natural approach to vineyard management is valuable only if it is undertaken with scientific expertise, agronomic awareness, and the ability to avoid pathological or dogmatic excesses.

    Furthermore, not all regions start from the same conditions. Certain particularly well-suited areas—thanks to factors such as ventilation, soil composition, exposure, and climate—facilitate low-intervention viticulture more easily. It is this principle that has historically made low-intervention viticulture more feasible. It is this principle that has historically given rise to the value of the great crus: certain places were considered precious precisely because they were capable of producing great wines almost “naturally,” thanks to their intrinsic vocation.

    Wine as an expression of an ecosystem

    This philosophy also entails a comprehensive rethinking of the farm. The vine is no longer viewed as an isolated element, but as part of a broader ecosystem that encompasses the landscape, biodiversity, and economic and human sustainability.

    In this context, wine becomes the coherent expression of a way of living and working, rather than merely a commercial category.

    A prime example is Dominique Belluard, a visionary figure in contemporary viticulture. With a background in advanced technical training, Belluard chose to implement a rigorous and comprehensive biodynamic approach in Haute-Savoie, not only in the vineyard but as an overall philosophy of life and business.

    The initial sacrifices were enormous, but over time his wines acquired a recognizable depth and personality. It was not simply a matter of “making natural wine,” but of pursuing a radical coherence between territory, agricultural practice, and lifestyle.

    Greater drinkability, new aromatic notes

    Many wines produced using less interventionist methods exhibit sensory characteristics that differ from those of more conventional wines. They often display greater drinkability, a more pronounced flavor profile, and less standardized aromatic profiles. Of course, this alone is not enough to define a wine’s quality. A wine must first and foremost be pleasant to drink and capable of evoking emotion. Technology and science should not be demonized: they remain essential tools for ensuring stability, precision, and safety.

    The real challenge, therefore, lies in finding a balance between scientific knowledge, respect for the land, and agricultural sensitivity.

    Perhaps the greatest limitation of the term “Natural Wine” is the term itself. The risk is turning a complex reflection into a rigid category or a slogan. Rather than distinguishing between “natural” and non-“natural” wines, it might make more sense to speak of production practices that prioritize the terroir, agricultural integrity, and the wine’s identity.

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