When it comes to Nebbiolo, the thought inevitably runs to the big aging reds. Deep, complex wines, built to defy the weather and traditionally associated with colder seasons. Yet, there is another soul of this great grape variety, less known but increasingly current: that which arises among mountains, terraces and Alpine valleys.
Here the Nebbiolo can take on different shapes, lighter, more dynamic and surprisingly suitable for the summer table. A wine to drink even on a cool summer evening, perhaps next to a grilled rib eye, a smoked fish or a plate of pizzoccheri eaten on a cool August evening.
From Valtellina to Alto Piemonte to Val d'Ossola, three wineries share the nuances of this great grape variety through wines perfect for the summer season.
From the Rhaetian Alps a white that also originates from Nebbiolo
In the heart of Sassella, one of the historic sub-areas of Valtellina, the Fratelli Polatti winery represents one of the most authentic realities of mountain viticulture. Founded in the 1930s by Cavalier Luigi Polatti, today it is experiencing a new era thanks to the Nera family, who preserve and enhance the terraced vineyards distributed throughout the appellation's most suitable areas. Here, between dry stone walls and slopes that can reach 70%, Novella Bianco Alpi Retiche IGT is born, a wine that tells the story of an unprecedented face of Chiavennasca.
Obtained from the white winemaking of Nebbiolo and Rossola, subsequently assembled in Chardonnay and Incrocio Manzoni, Novella was born in the vineyards of Teglio, at approximately 500 meters above sea level, on sandy soils naturally suited to freshness.
In the glass it appears with a bright straw yellow with greenish reflections. Notes of white-fleshed fruit, mountain flowers and a delicate mineral imprint emerge on the nose. The sip is fresh, savoury and immediate, capable of naturally accompanying aperitifs, lake fish, summer salads and fresh cheeses.
The daily elegance of Upper Piedmont
Few names can boast such a deep connection to the history of Italian wine as that of the Sella family. Since the 17th century, the vineyards of Lessona have been part of the family's heritage and have contributed to writing some of the most important pages of Piedmontese oenology. The estates today extend between Lessona, Brusnengo and Villa del Bosco, on ancient soils characterised by sea sands and kaolin clays that give the wines elegance and recognisability.
Orbello Coste della Sesia DOC was born exclusively from Nebbiolo and interprets the grape variety in a young and immediate way. Obtained from grapes from vineyards owned by Alto Piemonte, it is vinified in steel with a maceration of about twenty days and subsequently aged for six months in large French oak barrels and barriques.
The result is a young and territorial red, capable of expressing all the freshness of the fruit without sacrificing the typical elegance of the grape variety. The sip is dynamic, balanced and smooth, supported by a measured tannic texture that promotes drinkability. A versatile Nebbiolo, ideal for serving slightly fresh during the warm season and perfect in combination with white meats, cured meats, light grills and Mediterranean cuisine.
From Ossola the Nebbiolo becomes rosé
Between Monte Rosa and the Simplon Pass, the Ossola Valley is home to one of the rarest and most fascinating expressions of Nebbiolo: Prünent. Here, the Garrone family, now in their fourth generation, has carried out fundamental work to restore and enhance local viticulture, restoring perspective to an agricultural and landscape heritage that was at risk of being lost. The vineyards stand on terraces carved into the rock and in some cases still host centuries-old free-standing vines, a living testimony to the valley's viticultural history.
From these vineyards nestled in the mountains, Rosato Uve Foreste 2025 was born, a fresh and contemporary expression of Nebbiolo. Obtained from a short maceration on the skins of only two or three hours, this rosé retains all the varietal fragrance of the grapes and is subsequently aged in steel on its own fine lees for about six months. The Nebbiolo thus shows a completely different dress: more immediate, floral and thirst-quenching.
It is the perfect wine for summer, capable of accompanying aperitifs, vegetarian dishes, grilled fish and local cuisine without sacrificing the personality that distinguishes the grape variety.
