Between the sea and the mountains, where the vineyards thrive

We are in the heart of western Liguria, in the province of Imperia. Alessandro Anfosso is the man who saved the ungrafted Rossese Bianco—grown from century-old vines—from extinction. Today, Alessandro Anfosso, accompanied by his wife Marisa, continues to tend the family’s century-old vineyards with perseverance and hard work; some of these are ungrafted, serving as authentic testaments to a tradition of viticulture that would otherwise be in danger of disappearing.

We are looking at mountain viticulture overlooking the sea. Here, the vineyards climb up rugged cliffs where olive trees meet grapevines, on steep slopes shaped by the typical dry-stone walls. Mechanization is practically impossible here: every task is carried out by hand. It is a form of viticulture built on hard work, sweat, and patience.

In Dolceacqua, the birthplace of Rossese—one of Liguria’s most iconic red grape varieties—Alessandro has boldly chosen to go against the grain by dedicating himself to the meticulous work of promoting and preserving Rossese Bianco. This effort is aimed at preserving a rare viticultural heritage deeply rooted in the history of these hills.

The steep slopes and dry-stone walls were the key challenges in a restoration project that was anything but easy. At the same time, it is precisely these challenges that define the beauty of this landscape. Alessandro and Marisa have thus chosen not only to preserve the vineyards—which are often still ungrafted—but also to preserve a way of practicing viticulture, a legacy, and a connection to their land. It is a quiet and demanding endeavor, suspended between the sea and the mountains.

Antea

The Rossese Bianco grapes are harvested and left to macerate whole for 96 hours. The resulting must is then transferred to stainless steel tanks for alcoholic fermentation, where it remains for about a month. Afterward, it ages for about 12 months in 500-liter acacia tonneaux and for an additional 3 months in the bottle. The result is a luminous wine, reminiscent of light reflecting off the sea. On the nose, it evokes a flower-filled garden, and on the palate, it is smooth yet distinctly fresh and savory. It surprises with a pronounced briny note on the finish.