Volcanic Wines: 7 surprising labels from Piedmont to Etna

«The eruptive activity of volcanoes has given rise to soils with completely original and peculiar characteristics. The rocks that form – says Gianpaolo Girardi, founder of Proposta Vini – following volcanic activities represent a varied and fascinating world. Volcanic wines are recognizable above all by their taste, where a clear note of minerality emerges, a clear sensation of flavor always accompanied by a very pleasant and persistent acidity. Even in the presence of high alcohol levels, these wines are light, elegant and persistent to the taste. Growing grapes on volcanic soils means being custodians of ancestral knowledge and possessing the dynamic physicality necessary to endure hard work. These grapes are the daughters of vines determined to absorb moods by sinking their stubborn roots into the darkest depths of virgin, primordial, mineral-rich, complex soils».

 A unique, intriguing and surprising winemaking heritage for its vocation for longevity which winds along the entire country between active, extinct and dormant volcanoes and which Proposta Vini has been enhancing since 2019 with the project “Volcanic wines”:

Cantina Sociale di Gattinara - Gattinara

In the heart of Piedmont, in the lands of Nebbiolo, fine and unique wines such as Gattinara are born, whose peculiarities are strongly influenced by the geological history of the Supervolcano of Valsesia, dating back to around 280 million years ago. The soil of this area, rich in minerals, gives the wine savory and complex notes, as well as a great elegance that make Gattinara one of the most fascinating variations of Nebbiolo. The Gattinara from the Cantina Sociale of the same name, founded in 1908, is no exception, which stands out from view with its garnet-colored soil and captures the sense of smell with its intense aromas reminiscent of red fruit and morello cherries in alcohol. In the mouth it is austere, with soft, ripe tannins and a persistent finish. A red of great character to be enjoyed with red meats, game, roasts, typical Piedmontese cured meats, mushroom-based dishes and mature cheeses.

Quota 101 - Malterreno BIO

The organic Malterreno white wine from Quota 101 was born in Torreglia, near Padua, a company founded by the Gardina family in 2010 and committed to enhancing the territory through organic and sustainable viticulture, in harmony with nature and biodiversity, to produce authentic wines and genuine. Thus Malterrreno, obtained from white Manzoni, Tai and Garganega grapes, is a pure expression of its terroir of volcanic origin with its delicately fruity and aromatic aromas, including hints of white and tropical fruit, a soft taste and a marked minerality. Perfect as an aperitif and to accompany fish-based dishes such as linguine with clams, sea risottos, steamed prawn cocktails, grilled octopus, but also white meats and soft cheeses.

Sergio Mottura - La Torre a Civitella Grechetto BIO

Nestled between the clay hills and gullies of Tuscia to the west, and the fertility of the Umbrian Tiber plains to the east, the winery led by Sergio Mottura works the land, becoming the guardian of a heritage of biodiversity and profound winemaking tradition. From the mainly volcanic soils, part of the volcanic complex of the Vulsini mountains and Lake Bolsena, the Grechetto grapes are born which give life to La Torre a Civitella, a white of great character, complex and enveloping which stands out for its intense and elegant aromas with notes of white fruit, citrus fruits, hazelnut and melted butter. On the palate it is round and velvety with a persistent and slightly tannic finish which goes well with savory dishes with a strong taste such as onion soup and spicy ones such as chicken curry but also with sushi, shellfish, Milanese risotto and ossibuchi.

Candidaterra - Pandataria Il Vino del Confino

In Ventotene, an island of volcanic origin in the Pontine archipelago, the young Luigi Sportiello restored the ancient winemaking tradition that disappeared at the end of the 1960s. In this enchanted patch of land, Sportiello and his Candidaterra company are dedicated to the cultivation of Fiano, Greco and Falanghina from which Pandataria Il Vino del Confino was born. A mineral wine that with its hints of citrus and Mediterranean scrub reflects in the glass the peculiarities of the island whose ancient name it bears. Shiny straw yellow in colour, the nose reveals aromas of aromatic herbs with touches of white peach and citrus fruits. In the mouth, freshness and minerality balance well in an elegant and deep sip. An organoleptic profile that reveals the uniqueness of Candidaterra grapes, which grow on tufaceous matrix soils of volcanic origin, caressed by the savory and uncontaminated sea winds and golden by the sun. Ideal to pair with white meats and seafood specialties typical of the island, such as redfish carpaccio.

 La Sibilla - Cruna DeLago Falanghina Campi Flegrei

In Bacoli, in the Campi Flegrei, the Di Meo family, owners of La Sibilla, produces sincere wines with a strong savory and mineral imprint, typical of these volcanic soils made up of ash and lapilli. Five generations of winemakers who guard ancient vineyards, passing down winemaking and gastronomic traditions from which time-defying bottles are born such as CRUna DeLago, a wine made from pure Falanghina Campi Flegrei grapes harvested from a single 65-year-old vineyard. A structured and complex white with aromas of lemon and cedar, fruit with ripe yellow pulp, in a continuous evolution of aromas of thyme and rosemary which soon give way to smoky and hydrocarbon notes. The sip is full and enveloping, full-bodied and fresh with a marked flavor that extends the finish with elegance in iodinated notes. Perfect as an aperitif and with spaghetti with rock or sea urchins, risotto with vegetables or cuttlefish ink, sea bream with foil and grilled tuna.

Hibiscus - Zibibbo Passito Zhabib

Hibiscus is the only winery on the island of Ustica (born from the emergence of a part of the underwater volcano Monte Anchise) and under the guidance of the enterprising agronomist Margherita Longo it produces wines of great character and freshness that reflect the volcanic nature of the soils, the proximity to the sea and the biodiversity of the landscape. Among the native vines, Zibibbo stands out, which has always been cultivated on the island and vinified by Hibiscus in a passita version in the Zhabib: an intense and sunny wine that transmits the fruity aromas of Moscato grapes, giving pleasant sweet sensations of almonds, dried figs and honey, in balance with pleasant notes of freshness. The perfect pairing for pastries based on dried fruit, chocolate desserts but also spicy cheeses and Sicilian cuisine. Excellent to sip cold as a meditation wine.

Barone di Villagrande - Etna Bianco Monte Arso

The history of the Nicosia family has been linked to that of the Villagrande district since the end of the seventeenth century: ten generations of winemakers who on the slopes of Etna produce wines that embody and enhance the peculiarities of this microcosm out of any cliché. Thus, from the Carricante grapes grown in the Monte Arso vineyard, an ancient volcanic cone formed around 1150 following an important lava flow, located on the border of the eastern side where the volcano turns towards the south, the Etna Bianco Contrada Monte Arso is born. A wine jewel composed of Carricante 95% and other white grape varieties indigenous to the area 5%, whose aromas of white flowers and citrus fruits invite you to take a savory and very fresh, sinuous and persistent sip that suggests the over 800 meters of altitude in which the grapes grow. An enveloping white to sip with seafood, shellfish, risottos and pastas with vegetables and legumes, grilled fish, white meats and fresh cheeses.